Myths !!!
à Idle speed settings are set at the factory and should not be adjusted
à Engine speeds on a twin engine model must be the same or doom and disaster will occur
à Manufacturers specs for prop sizes that are always correct
à Higher octane gas gives you more power
à After run oil is only for 2-strokes and is optional
à Engine instructions never help and cause additional trouble
à Tweaking the high speed needle for maximum prop speed is always the best way to set up an engine before a flight
à 3 and 4 blade props are more efficient. That’s why WWII fighters used them.
à Horsepower ratings between manufacturer’s can be used to compare engines and accurately reflect engine performance
à If a little is good, a lot is better
à Opening up a new engine, cleaning, and lubricating it causes trouble
à Horsepower numbers help select the right engine for an application
à Engine starters are bad for the engine
à Glow engines will never start without a power source attached to the glow plug
à You have to remove the engine from the model for long term storage
à Commercial after-run oil from the hobby stores is better than Automatic Transmission Oil
à Providing remote engine kill is optional
à 4-stroke engines kicking back and throwing props is just their nature – you just live with it
à Gasoline engines cannot be stopped by closing the throttle
à Prop manufacturers balance their props close enough
à Props from the same manufacturer with the same diameter and pitch are identical (cough!!!)
à All fuels are the same
à 90% of engine related problems are not related to the fuel system
à It takes weeks for water to get into the fuel (especially in dry, sunny Washington)
à Smaller engines are safer
à Multi-cylinder engines generate more power than the same cubic displacement singles
à Diesel engines only work in Europe
à FAI fuel is for wimps à always reach for the nitro
à Always use the largest fuel tank you can fit into a model
à Tank position is flexible
à Fuel foaming is a myth and is really caused by bad fuel