 |
We started with the fuselage and removed the covering where the epoxy glue would be used on the horizontal stabilizer platform and the stab itself. We had some covering to cut out in the fuselage as well. We followed the instructions for this. |
 |
We checked the alignment many, many times as the epoxy set. It is important to keep the horizontal stabilizer centered in the slot, the tips of the stab even as measured from the front to the fuselage and the distance from the building surface to the stab even at both ends all at the same time. The model won't fly well if the alignment isn't correct. We take lots of time to measure everything before the glue set. We waited for the epoxy to set before continuing with the tail feathers. |
 |
While the epoxy on the fuse is setting we continue with the main wing. The dihedral brace was epoxy glued into place and allowed to set earlier. Now we carefully remove the center covering for the fiberglass/epoxy reinforcement. Care must be taken not to cut too deep with the razor knife, so the wood doesn't get cut, only the covering material. |
 |
Petroleum jelly was forced into the aileron torque rod slots to prevent the epoxy from gluing the control rod wires to the wood. Epoxy was put on the wing dihedral joint and then the fiberglass was pressed into the epoxy. A heat gun and acid brush were used to distribute the epoxy. Paper towel was used to blot the excess epoxy up. Alcohol and a paper towel was used to clean up any excess epoxy in other areas. |
 |
You can see the heat gun we used and that the wing is suspended above the building table by wood spacers. Also, plastic wrap was used on the building table, under the wing to catch any excess epoxy. |
 |
This is the completed job with the fiberglass and epoxy reinforcing the center of the main wing. Note that you can still see the weave of the fiberglass. We don't want to use any more epoxy than necessary, since it adds so much weight to the model. |
 |
Since the Vertical stabilizer's glue had set, we proceeded with the vertical stabilizer. You can see the two squares and shims used to make sure that the vertical stabilizer is at right angles to the horizontal stabilizer. This is another of the critical areas that needs to be correct for the model to fly well. We used a small amount of 30-minute epoxy glue to hold the vertical stabilizer in place. |
 |
We decided to use our existing HB40 2 stroke engine and also use the dual spring nose gear for this model. The crankcase of the engine is wider than the supplied engine mount would conveniently fit, so we used some aluminum engine mounts. We drilled and tapped the 4-40 holes for the engine so that the engine propeller driver extended just past the end of the fuselage. 4-40 socket heat screws, lock washers and washers were used to secure the engine to the mount. |
 |
We also added blind (T) nuts to the back of the firewall to capture the 4-40 socket head screws to attach the engine mount to the firewall. Locknuts and washers were used with the socket head screws. A thin layer of 30-minute epoxy was brushed on the wood surfaces in the fuselage. A heat gun was used to heat the epoxy until it ran like water, then an acid brush was used to spread the epoxy. This prevents a heavy buildup of epoxy. We want to keep this model as light as possible. |
 |
We are assembling the fuel tank per the instructions. We used Super Silicone to seal the tank stopper, and a custom silver soldered clunk to help prevent the clunk from coming forward in the event of a hard landing. |
 |
We wanted to mount this fuel tank through the firewall to keep the fuel tubing outside of the fuselage. We removed the engine and drilled a hole using a fostner drill bit. |
 |
While everything was out of the way, we mounted the dual spring nose gear onto the firewall. Blind nuts were used on the inside of the firewall for the 4-40 socket head screws. |
 |
We also ran the nose wheel pushrod so that the rudder and nose wheel move together. The nose wheel movement was limited to 3/8-inch in either direction. This should be plenty of movement. |
 |
We installed the engine and installed the throttle pushrod. We used a ball-link for attaching the throttle nylon push rod to the engine carburetor. The control throws were verified using the radio and receiver. |
 |
To keep the control surface control as precise as possible, carbon fiber push rods were installed rather than the supplied wood ones. These carbon fiber pushrods were also supported by the installed balsa supports and shims. These were CA glued into the fuselage. There was very little movement side-to-side of the control push rods as the radio controls were moved from extreme to extreme. The rudder and elevator control throws were verified during this step. |
 |
This is another photo of the control system. Next we installed the receiver battery under the fuel tank, surrounding the battery with foam. The fuel tank was slipped into place and fuel tubing run from the muffler and carb of the engine to the fuel tank. |
 |
The aileron linkage was installed keeping everything simple and adding the differential as shown in the instructions. |
 |
White trim sheet was added to cover the fiberglass/epoxy reinforcement. Also, notice the red tape added to the wing. This is to help align the wing to the fuselage as the rubber bands are being stretched across the dowel rods to hold the wing on. We used 12 rubber bands to hold the wing on. |
 |
Here is the completed model in the shop waiting for the maiden voyage. The coolers are packed and ready to go too! |
 |
We got the maiden voyage in. The engine proved to need some extra attention, so we later changed the HB40 (0.40 Cubic Inch) to a HB50 (0.50 Cubic Inch) engine. The 40 was just too tired and needed a new ring. The control surfaces did not need any trim adjustment to fly the model! That is unusual. |
Builder's Corner
Barnyard Buzzards Home Page